2018_September-October.indd

the Home Cooking issue

MAC & CHEESE

words by LizThorpe + photo by Romney Caruso M acaroni and cheese is a very important meal in my house. I’d like to tell you that’s because I regularly experiment with exotic combinations of cheeses, or because I’m constantly inventing new approaches to this perennial crowd- pleaser.But the truth is that, of the (perhaps) hundreds of pounds that get eaten each year at my place, the vast majority comes from a narrow little box and is handily taken down by my two young daughters. I was mildly horrified when, several months ago,

my youngest announced, “Macaroni and cheese is my favorite food in the world.” It’s the only meal I consistently make from a package. If I needed a sharp nudge to recalibrate my mac and cheese expectations, her pronouncement was it. Over 16 years in the cheese biz, I’ve done a fair amount of recipe development and tinkering with the traditional dishes in which cheese plays a starring role, and rarely do I find that a crazy deviation in technique or ingredients yields a superior finished

dish. The classics are called classic for a reason. But mac and cheese is something of an exception. What I’ve learned is that the basic techniques for making a sublime dish of macaroni and cheese must be respected and followed. But the recommended ingredients often sell this gooey wonder short. Variations in cheese and add-ins can transform mac and cheese from a one-note, multi-calorie hit to a nuanced side dish (or main dish) with real character and personality. But first, you need to master the basics.

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MY ROUSES EVERYDAY

SEPTEMBER | OCTOBER 2018