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Simply Z’Best By Marcelle Bienvenu T and sausage — and sometimes even rabbit or squirrel! But there is one gumbo that is truly the king of them all, and that’s gumbo aux herbes or gumbo z’herbes . This unique gumbo is believed to have originated with Creoles, particularly on Good Friday when, it was believed, you would have good luck for the coming year if you ate seven greens and met seven people during the day. Some folklore says that, for every green put into the gumbo, a new friend would be made during the coming year. Since it was typically eaten on Good Friday, no meat was added, although oysters were often added to the pot. But in Acadiana, it was not the tradi tional Good Friday meal, since the gumbo z’herbes was usually prepared with salt meat or ham, and devout Catholics don’t eat meat on Good Friday. In our family, it was typically a hearty gumbo, often prepared by my Aunt Grace when the hordes of aunts, uncles and cousins flocked to her house on weekends. As with all the other types of gumbo, there are many versions of this green gumbo. Some recipes call for cabbage, radish tops, turnips, mustard, spinach, watercress, parsley and green onions (a total of eight greens). But other recipes for gumbo z’herbes claim you will have good luck for the coming year if you eat seven greens and meet seven people during the course of the day. Those recipes often include collard or mustard greens, spinach, beet or turnip greens, chicory, cabbage, watercress, parsley, along with the green tops of carrots and radishes. The late, great, beloved Leah Chase made her gumbo z’herbes on Holy Thursday. She always used nine greens, which I understand was to represent the nine churches visited on Good Friday in remembrance of Jesus’ walk to be crucified. And since it was served on Holy Thursday, hers also included several kinds of meats. here are so many types of gumbo on the Gulf Coast. You can find them made with everything from chicken and turkey to seafood

Blend greens in a food processor until puréed. Heat skillet of reserved chaurice drippings over high heat and add flour to the skillet. Cook until flour is fully cooked and a roux is formed (about 5 minutes; does not have to brown). Pour roux over meat mixture in stockpot and stir to combine. Add puréed greens and 2 quarts reserved liquid. Simmer over low heat 20 minutes. Add chaurice, thyme and cayenne to the stockpot. Stir well. Season and simmer 40 minutes. Stir in filé powder and remove from heat. Serve over steamed rice. MARCELLE’S GUMBO Z’HERBES (WITHOUT A ROUX) Makes about 10 servings In addition to the controversy regarding the inclusion of meat in gumbo z’herbes is the debate about whether or not it should be made with a roux. (My mother sometimes added a cup of premade roux to her gumbo z’herbes. It’s a personal thing.) Also, if you can find fresh greens, I highly recommend using them, but if not, frozen will suffice. WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 pound collard or mustard greens 1 pound spinach 1 pound turnip greens 1 pound green cabbage leaves 1 large bunch fresh watercress (optional) 1 large bunch fresh parsley (optional) The tops of 6 carrots (optional) The tops of a large bunch of radishes (optional) ½ teaspoon cayenne ½ teaspoon black pepper 2 bay leaves ½ teaspoon ground thyme ¼ teaspoon allspice (optional) 1 pound salt meat or ham, cut into small cubes 3 tablespoons vegetable shortening 1 bunch green onions, finely chopped 1 cup chopped yellow onions 1 garlic clove, minced HOW TO PREP: If using fresh greens, trim and wash well. Put the greens in a large, deep pot and add enough water to cover. Add the cayenne, black pepper, bay leaves, thyme and allspice. Boil until the greens are tender. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid (you should have about 3 to 4 quarts of liquid).

TEAM ROUX

LEAH CHASE’S GUMBO Z’HERBES (PRONOUNCED GUMBO ZAB) Makes 8-10 servings

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 bunch mustard greens 1 bunch collard greens 1 bunch turnip greens

1 bunch watercress 1 bunch beet tops 1 bunch carrot tops 1 bunch spinach ½ head lettuce ½ head cabbage 2 onions, chopped (about 3 cups) 4 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped 5 tablespoons flour 1 pound smoked sausage 1 pound smoked ham 1 pound brisket, cubed 1 pound stew meat 1 pound chaurice (hot sausage) 1 teaspoon thyme leaves 1 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon filé powder Steamed rice for serving

HOW TO PREP: Clean all greens under cold running water, making sure to pick out and discard bad leaves and rinse away any grit. Chop greens coarsely and place them in a 12-quart stockpot with the onions and garlic. Cover with about 1½ gallons water. Bring mixture to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook 30 minutes. Strain greens. Reserve greens and liquid. Cut all meats except chaurice into 1-inch bite-size pieces, and put in 12-quart stockpot with 2 cups of the reserved liquid. Steam over high heat for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cut chaurice into bite-size pieces and place in a skillet over high heat to render, about 10 minutes. Remove chaurice, keeping grease in the skillet. Set aside.

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