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MARCELLE’S SHRIMP AND EGG GUMBO Makes 8 servings

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: ½ cup vegetable oil ²⁄₃ cup all-purpose flour 1 cup chopped yellow onions ¼ cup chopped green bell pepper ¼ cup chopped red bell pepper

1 rib celery, chopped 2 garlic cloves, peeled 8 cups water ¼ cup dried shrimp, soaked in ½ cup water for 1 hour 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper ¼ teaspoon Tabasco brand Garlic Pepper Sauce 8 large eggs 1 pound medium-size fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined HOW TO PREP: Heat the oil in a large, heavy pot over medium heat for 2 minutes, then add the flour. Stir constantly to make a dark brown roux, the color of chocolate, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the bell peppers, celery and garlic, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of the water to the roux mixture and stir well to blend. Then add the remaining 6 cups of water and stir again to blend. Drain the soaked dried shrimp and add to the pot. Cover the pot and reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 1½ hours. Add the salt, black pepper and Tabasco, then skim off any oil that has risen to the surface. Drain the gumbo into a colander set over a large bowl. All the vegetables will remain in the colander. Pour off about 4 cups of the gumbo liquid and transfer it into a medium-size saucepan. Put one whole, raw, unpeeled egg into a cup and gently “pour” it into this saucepan of gumbo. Repeat this step with the remaining eggs, gentling placing them around the pot, not on top of each other. Poach for about 5 minutes; then, using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer them to the big pot. Pour the poaching gumbo liquid back into the larger pot of gumbo. Return the vegetables to the gumbo pot and add the fresh shrimp, green onions and parsley, and let simmer, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. ½ cup chopped green onions ½ cup chopped fresh parsley Steamed rice

Until I was a young adult, I believed that the only way to make a roux was my mama’s way: Equal parts of oil and flour were combined in a cast-iron pot over medium-low heat and stirred constantly until the mixture reached the desired color, which sometimes took over half an hour. When Mama was going to make a roux, she announced to the household that she was not to be disturbed as she went about her task. You could die at her feet, and she wouldn’t even blink an eye. Her method allowed her to enjoy a couple of whiskey sours or Manhattans while she had some peace and quiet. Chef Paul Prudhomme’s technique for making a roux was to get the oil almost smoking hot, then add the flour and in minutes, voilà! — a roux. I couldn’t believe my eyes. I still can’t bring myself to make a roux like this.

Years ago, I worked with Eula Mae Dore, who was the cook for the McIlhennys at Avery Island, on her cookbook. She professed that all rouxs should have more flour than oil. “ Cher , a little more flour always makes a slightly thick gumbo or stew, and that’s how I like it,” she explained. I admit I do a roux “her way” when I make a shrimp and egg gumbo.

– Marcelle Bienvenu

Serve in gumbo bowls or deep soup bowls with rice.

36 ROUSES FAL L 2022