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potato salad — just a little bit sweeter. The sweetness complements the spicy flavor of the gumbo, while still adding richness. Get the recipe online at www.rouses.com.

SWEET POTATO SALAD ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Sweet potato salad is a variation on

– Liz Williams, founder, Southern Food and Beverage Museum

dictated by nature. This is the very definition of the terroir of New Orleans.

In the toe of Louisiana’s boot, where the overflow of the Mississippi regularly enriches the soil, tomatoes grow into wondrous, mineral-tasting red globes of taste perfection. They can be ugly, but they always taste delicious. And when they are available, they should be used to enhance everything. That means, yes, even in gumbo and jambalaya. When shrimp and crabs are running, okra is fresh and crisp, and tomatoes are just waiting to be picked. They belong together. They are of the slightly acidic but sweet tomatoes, the vegetal okra and the wonderful seafood is

boudin and gumbo.

Press, an upscale bistro in Lafayette, serves a Cajun Benedict. In a local twist on the classic Eggs Benedict, the Lafayette native — a James Beard Foundation nominee — replaces Canadian bacon and hollandaise with

ready together. The blending

GUMBO FOR BREAKFAST ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Chef Justin Girouard, owner of The French

the restaurant’s website.

ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Mary Mahoney’s Old French House in Biloxi serves classic Gulf Coast cuisine and seafood gumbo made from a recipe that goes back more than 40 years. Even John Grisham is a fan. The author has featured the restaurant’s gumbo in two of his novels. Mahoney’s sends Grisham gumbo every December. You too can get a shipment — Mahoney’s famous seafood gumbo is available for shipping on

GRISHAM’S GUMBO