ROUSES_Fall2022_Magazine-low-res

8 ROUSES FAL L 2022

2 cups diced poblano peppers 1 bunch green onions, sliced thin 1 bunch parsley, chopped

– Liz Williams, founder, Southern Food and Beverage Museum

Orleans is one of the proudest things you can do in your life because this is a city that knows food,” she says. When she returned to the city, she took a job for Chef Adolfo Garcia, who she knew from culinary school, and worked her way up the ranks at High Hat Cafe, first to sous chef and then chef. In March 2020, the COVID quaran tine restrictions were like a wrecking ball through the service industry, and High Hat was affected like everywhere else. Richard and a handful of the management staff kept the restaurant going, switching exclusively to takeout orders. When one of the front of-house managers decided to leave the service industry, Richard took over the job so that High Hat would not have to lay off its sous chefs in order to hire from outside the company. “I thought it would be momentary —maybe six months or something like that,” she says. It ended up being permanent. “I really enjoy the front of the house, but the kitchen still calls me.” She calls High Hat her last restaurant. “I’m not going anywhere,” she says. “I’ll do whatever I need to do to make this restaurant work. Out in the front I am, but I still get to cook on the reg.” One of the items on High Hat’s menu? Gumbo, of course. And yes, it is made with a roux — but as Allison Richard will tell you, it doesn’t have to be. CHEF ALLISON RICHARD’S SHRIMP & CRAB, OKRA & TOMATO GUMBO Makes 3 gallons WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 3 1.2-ounce packs dried shrimp, for shrimp dust 2 pounds fresh okra, sliced into ½-inch rounds 3 cups chopped, peeled and seeded ripe tomatoes, or 3 cups chopped canned tomatoes, including their liquid ½ cup vegetable oil, separated 2 packs gumbo crabs 4 cups diced yellow onions 2 cups diced celery

is inviolate in most Louisiana households. Tradition rules!

refrigeration, we don’t always eat with the seasons. But being bound by our traditions, the rule of tomatoes or no tomatoes

To make shrimp dust, pulse dried shrimp in a blender and process until it turns into powder; set aside. Coat the edges of a large ovenproof pot with vegetable oil. Add the okra and tomatoes plus 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil to the pot. Mix well. Cover the pot with an ovenproof lid. Place covered pot in the preheated oven and bake, stirring occasionally, for 1½ to 2 hours, or until the slime has disappeared. Remove lid and bake uncovered for the last 15 minutes of the cooking time, or until okra is tender. Meanwhile, chop the remaining vegetables, divide in half, and set aside. Reserve any trimmings for the stock. To make the stock, toast crabs in a 400°F oven for 30 minutes, then place them in large stockpot with 3 gallons of water and any trimmings from the vegetable cuttings, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer over moderately low heat for 25 minutes. Strain the stock into a very large, heatproof bowl.

we want. With the advent of

Let’s face it: There are no rules today, only traditions. We can use filé, okra and roux in the same gumbo pot if

In the stockpot, heat the remaining oil and the butter. Add half the chopped vegetables; cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened. Add the remaining vegetables, shrimp dust, tomato paste, garlic powder, minced garlic, thyme, cayenne pepper and bay leaves. Season with salt and pepper, and cook over moderately low heat, stirring until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce. Add the okra and tomato blend to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and let simmer for 30 minutes. Add the shrimp to the pot and cook until just pink throughout, about 2 minutes. Remove bay leaves and season with more salt and pepper to taste. Fold in the crabmeat and serve with steamed rice.

HOW TO PREP: Preheat oven to 300°F.

3 tablespoons butter 2 15-ounce cans tomato paste 2 tablespoons garlic powder 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme 3 pinches cayenne pepper 4 bay leaves Salt and pepper, to taste ½ cup Worcestershire sauce ½ cup Crystal Hot Sauce 3 pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 pound lump crabmeat, picked over Steamed rice, for serving