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Q Is for Quadrucci Q is for Quadrucci, with its four- sided cut; Its very small size means that you’ll need a glut. Quadrucci’s Personality: One of the few pastinas (diminutive pastas, see letter “D”) to be awarded its own unique name, the quadrucci are wee square- shaped noodles. Best Sidekicks: The majority of the time, quadrucci appears in a broth-based soup, and is the kind of noodle that is often made from the “leftovers” of a bigger pasta-making endeavor. (If you’re looking to try your hand at homemade pasta, this is a simple — but delicious! — place to begin.)

S Is for Spaghetti S is for Spaghetti, the most famous of all; Long, thin and lean — its legend stands tall. Spaghetti’s Personality: No pasta shape is more deeply ingrained into our American psyche than spaghetti, whether you’re singing the classic song for kids, “On Top of Spaghetti,” or talking about those famous Spaghetti Western films. It’s a noodle that has used its long, twirly, cylindrical versatility to become nothing short of legend- ary. Best Sidekicks: Spaghetti is a jack-of-all-trades when it comes to sauce pairings, so it’s no wonder the pasta shape accounts for two-thirds of all pasta eaten across the globe.

U Is for Umbrichelli U is for Umbrichelli, from the Umbria region; These wriggly-shaped pastas are a gift for all seasons! Umbrichelli’s Personality: While I tend to stay away from any potentially squeamish comparisons, with umbrichelli, it’s undeniable that this regional specialty — a type of spaghetti — deeply resembles earthworms. Best Sidekicks: This thick, rope- style pasta is typically served with a light sprinkling of truffle — another regional delicacy. (Can’t find it in stores? Any spaghetti on the thicker side should do the trick!)

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V Is for Vesuvio V is for Vesuvio: curlicues of delight; Named for a volcano with powerful might. Vesuvio’s Personality: A short, spiraled pasta that gets its name from the (still active!) volcano that looms large over the city of Naples, this attractive noodle is sure to entice the eyes as one’s taste buds (forgive me) erupt. Best Sidekicks: The vesuvio has plenty of nooks and crannies, so can play nicely with a texture- rich sauce, or spin in the other direction and work with a thinner sauce that features similar-sized costars, like beans or hunks of mushroom. (Can’t find it in stores? Fusilli is an easy substitute that still has lots of sauce-holding grip.)

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R Is for Ravioli R is for Ravioli, those stuffed pillows of bliss; Filled with fine meats and cheeses you don’t want to miss. Ravioli’s Personality: These pockets of pasta dough stuffed with any number of tantalizing ingredients — from ricotta and lemon rind, to chard and ground beef — are both a noodle style and a pasta category unto them- selves. Best Sidekicks: Raviolis come with the majority of their good- ness built-in, but light tomato sauces often accompany the filled pastas and offset some of the inherent decadence.

T Is for Tortellini T is for Tortellini, often served in a broth; When people dream of this noodle, their mouths, they do froth. Tortellini’s Personality: With a shape that some people believe looks like a belly button, tortellini are deeply beloved, filled, ring- shaped pastas typically stuffed with well-spiced meat, most notably mortadella and pork. Best Sidekicks: While there’s a tendency today for tortellini to be coated in a ragu of some sort, the essence of the pasta really shines through when coupled with a broth or light cream sauce.

22 MARCH•APRIL 2019