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since the Civil War — or as early as the 1700s, when legend has it street vendors sold them along Front Street). The pies are served at just about every eatery in the area. However, it’s Lasyone’s Meat Pie Restaurant that resurrected the local delicacy in 1967, and continues to crank out thousands of the handmade meat- filled crispy pastries. We happily feasted on a couple of dozen in the restaurant and purchased some to take home with us. According to the locals, there is some discussion regarding the amount of beef and pork that should go into the meat pies. Lasyone’s still use their original recipe with a 4-to-1 ratio of ground beef to ground pork, but most other outlets use equal parts beef and pork. I always say, make it to please your own palate! Just so you know how important the meat pies are to this town, the Louisiana legislature declared by unanimous vote in the summer of 2003, at the initiative of Representative Taylor Townsend (a native of Natchi- toches), “There shall be an official state meat pie. The official state meat pie shall be the Natchitoches meat pie.” I’ve tried several versions of the meat pie, and finally decided this is the one that tickles my taste buds.

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour Vegetable oil for deep-frying

cream mixture and the wine. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until thick, about 5 minutes. Add the tarragon, salt, pepper and cayenne, and simmer for 1 minute. Add the chicken and vegetable mixture to the saucepan and mix gently into the cream sauce. Remove from heat. Increase the oven temperature to 425°F. Mix the egg and water together in a small bowl to make an egg wash; set aside. Pour the chicken filling into a deep two- quart casserole. Roll out the pastry and place it over the casserole dish. Trim the pastry, leaving a one-inch border. Brush the edges of the pastry with the egg wash and press the overhanging dough onto the dish. Crimp the pastry all around and brush the top with more of the egg wash. With a knife, make a couple of slashes in the center of the pastry for steam to vent. Place the dish on a baking sheet and put it in the preheated oven. Bake until the crust is golden, about 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot. NATCHITOCHES MEAT PIE The town of Natchitoches became a household name when the hit movie Steel Magnolias was filmed there in 1989. Natchitoches predates the 1718 founding of New Orleans; according to the Natchitoches Historic Foundation, “Louis Juchereau de St. Denis, in an effort to establish trade with the Spanish in Mexico, commissioned the building of a small fort on the west bank of the Red River near a village of the Natchitoches Indians in 1714.” I was introduced to the local delicacy called Natchitoches meat pies in the late 1960s, when my parents took us to the quaint Central Louisiana town located on the Red River to attend the annual Christmas Festival of Lights, which began in 1927. Our visit would not have been complete without enjoying the famous Natchi- toches meat

HOW TO PREP: Heat the shortening in a heavy pot (preferably black cast-iron) over medium heat. Add the beef and pork, and cook, stirring, until all pink has disappeared, around 6 to 8 minutes. Add the green onions, garlic and bell peppers and cook, stirring often, until the vegetables are soft and lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Season with the salt, cayenne and black pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the flour, mixing well. Remove from the heat and let cool. Make the dough by sifting the dry ingredients into a mixing bowl. Cut in the shortening and incorporate into the mixture. In a small bowl, beat the egg and the milk together. Work the egg-milk mixture

gradually into the dry ingredients until a thick

dough is formed. Divide the dough

into 18 to 20 equal portions. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough pieces into thin rounds. Using a saucer as a guide, trim the dough to make even rounds. Place a heaping

THE RECIPE: NATCHITOCHES MEAT PIE Makes 18 to 20 meat pies WHAT YOU WILL NEED: For the Dough: 4 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon baking powder ½ cup solid vegetable shortening 1 egg 1 cup milk

tablespoon of the meat mixture slightly off center of the round dough. Fold to make the edges meet and crimp the edges with the tines of a fork. Deep fry in hot oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve immediately. Marcelle Bienvenu is a cookbook author and food writer. A native of St. Martinville, in the heart of Cajun country, Bienvenu wrote Who’s Your Mama, Are You Catholic and Can You Make a Roux? and Stir the Pot: The History of Cajun Cuisine with Eula Mae Dora, and other books and cookbooks. She also co- authored five cookbooks with Emeril Lagasse.

For the Filling: 1 teaspoon solid vegetable shortening 1½ pounds lean ground beef ½ pound lean ground pork 1 cup chopped green onions 1 teaspoon chopped garlic 1 cup chopped bell peppers 1½ teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

pies (believed to have been around

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