ROUSES_SeptOct2019_Magazine

the bowl games by sarah baird, photo by Romney Caruso People often say that necessity is the mother of invention. And as Earl Binnings knows, sometimes you just need a good gumbo — even at 10 a.m. “The idea came to me one day when I really wanted to eat breakfast food, but I also really wanted gumbo — after all, no one ever said you can’t mix the two,” he explains. “I didn’t make it that day, but a couple of weekends later at home, I made breakfast gumbo for the first time. Instead of rice, I did grits, then I chopped up green onions, added fresh, crumbled bacon and chili flakes, and drizzled

But this isn’t the first time Binnings, who works in Rouses Construc- tion Department, has shown off his flair for the creative when it comes to food. “I was always the one in my friend group tinkering with stuff in the kitchen. I was in the bar business for years; I worked in fine dining and got into wine pairing and all that. It taught me, ‘Who says you can’t break the rules?’ One of the things people really like are my buffalo ribs — I fry pork ribs like they’re a chicken wing. I started doing that 10 years ago and now I have friends who don’t want my wings, they want my ribs.” Breakfast gumbo was also an instant hit among Binnings’ friends, and eventually, the general public: The dish landed him the coveted titles of “Most Creative” and “Best Soup” a few years ago at Big Boy’s Main Street Cook-Off in Thibodaux, a culinary showcase

of Cajun cuisine that is the kickoff to Thibodeauxville Fall Festival weekend every year. “This is the perfect dish to make at a tailgate over a fire: You get out there about 9 or 10 o’clock on game day, and you get your drink on for the game at noon. There are no real rules — it’s a gumbo — who cares if it’s breakfast!” As for a drink pairing? For Binnings, there’s only one option stout enough to stand up to the breakfast gumbo: “You have to do a Bloody Mary as a pairing! A mimosa just isn’t going to work with this — that’s for something lighter like eggs Benedict,” he laughs. “Look, in South Louisiana, you probably have a headache from Friday night. If you’re going into Saturday’s LSU game, you’re going to need that Bloody Mary!” And for those ready to try their hand at breakfast gumbo this tailgate season, Binnings’ biggest tip is one that will sound all too familiar to many more traditional gumbo makers: “It better be a dark roux! Any time I start going light on [the roux], I can hear my Uncle Todd over my shoulder like, ‘Nope, not quite! Don’t add your liquid yet!’”

in the egg like an egg drop soup to keep it light and fluffy. That’s how it came about.”

Breakfast Gumbo with Grits (Serves 16) WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cups flour 2 cups diced onions 2 cups diced celery 1 cup diced bell peppers ¼ cup minced garlic 3 quarts chicken stock 1 pound of ham, cut into 1-inch chunks 12 eggs 2 cups quick grits 2 tablespoons butter teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper Louisiana hot sauce, to taste 6 strips cooked bacon, chopped 1 egg yolk, chopped Chopped green onion tops, for serving

HOW TO PREP: Start the roux by heating the oil over medium-low heat. Add the flour slowly, stirring con- tinuously with a whisk or a wooden spoon. Once the oil and flour begin to come together and bubble, the heat level can be raised or lowered. When the roux has been cooked to a light brown, add the onion, celery, bell pepper and garlic. When the vegetables have been completely incorporated into the roux, the flour will be even darker. Allow the mixture to simmer until the vegetables release their liquids and the onions are translucent. Slowly stir in the stock until well-blended. Bring to a boil, then let simmer for 2 hours. Meanwhile, cook the grits to a thick consistency. Mix in butter and season with salt and crushed red pepper flakes; set aside. In a separate pan, soft-scramble a dozen eggs. Add scrambled eggs and ham to the gumbo pot and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes. Serve the gumbo over the grits. Season with hot sauce and garnish with cooked bacon, egg yolks, and green onion tops.

LOCALS SUPPORTING LOCALS Don’t miss Big

Boy’s Main Street Cook-Off, Friday, November 8, 2019 in Historic

Downtown Thibodaux.

75

ROUSES

WWW.ROUSES.COM