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MS. DORA’S FLAN Makes 6-8 servings

Crèma de Vie, a more potent, rum-laced version of eggnog, lubricates the festivi ties, while buñuelos, powder-sugar-dusted Cuban-style beignets, force everyone to save room for dessert. A NewYork Times reporter once described La Noche Buena in terms that American appetites could quickly understand, saying it combined the “belt-loosening largess of Thanksgiving with the conviviality of a Fourth of July barbecue.” Dora and other Cubans who left as children have rich memories of Christmas on the island, keeping the decorations up until Jan. 6 when the presents arrived. But after 1959, when the Communist party took power, everything changed — and Christmas was no exception. A deeply Catholic country for centuries, religion was suddenly outlawed, and in 1962, the Cuban government deemed anyone associated with Catholi cism an agent against the revolution. In 1969, the Communist government made the ground-shaking decision to ban the public celebration of Christmas. “Even private Christmas trees and decorations were regarded with suspicion,” reported The New York Times. “All people were required to work on Christmas Day, ostensibly on the ground that religious trivialities could not be allowed to interfere in sugar production.” Things began to slowly change again in the 1990s, thanks almost entirely to a five-day visit by Pope John Paul II in January 1998. “Castro attended nearly every papal event and sat in the front row at Masses,” Reuters reported on the Pope’s monumental trip, which “galvanized the local church, infusing it with more courage to stand up to the communist government on human rights abuses and to press for the release of political prisoners.” In the years since Pope John Paul II’s visit, Christmas has remained a recognized religious holiday in Cuba. And since 2015, when there was a visit from Pope Francis, Catholicism has rebounded, “gradually expanding its role and influence after suffering repression for decades,” Reuters reported. “It now has more autonomy than any organization outside the auspices of the Communist party.” For many Cuban families who left more than half a century ago, telling stories of life on the island, sharing memories

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: For Flan: 6 tablespoons sugar

from one generation to the next, and, of course, cooking favorite recipes, keeps them grounded in a vibrant culture that has withstood unfathomable hardships — and survived. And that leads us back to flan, a dessert so beloved that “it’s not rare to find an all-flan (dessert) lineup — de leche, de queso, de calabaza, and, of course, de coco” in Cuban restaurants, writes Ana Sofia Pelaez, author of The Cuban Table, A Celebration of Food, Flavors, and History , published by St. Martin Press and nominated for a James Beard Award in the international cookbook category. “The trick to a great Flan de Leche begins and ends with the caramelo — the sugar heated slowly over a steady flame until it reaches just the right amber hue without becoming bitter,” writes Pelaez, whose recipes also can be found on the website HungrySofia.com. Her flan recipe calls for cooking the caramel for five to eight minutes, watching it carefully while the sugar melts. “It can get away from you easily, but it’s always fun to see how far you can take it.” Dora also advises keeping a close watch on the pan as the caramel is cooking, swirling it so it coats the bottom of the pan completely, then following the rest of her recipe’s steps. (Don’t miss her recipe below!) Once it’s perfectly cooled, it’s time for the flipping of the flan. At the Rouse family Christmas Eve party, Chris Acosta often has the pleasure of doing the honors. “I’d say, I’ve now flipped it about five or six times,” he said. “No mishaps, but I’m always very cautious because I don’t want any mistakes on my part!” As the flan cools, it can create a seal with the pan. So, after the flan is fully cooled, run a knife around the edges to loosen it from the pan. When ready to flip, gently tap the pan to further loosen it. Then place a plate on top and invert the pan; the custard should slide out while still holding its form. If done right, it’s worthy of a celebration — the perfect sweet finish for a spaghetti feast.

3 whole eggs 2 egg whites

1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk 1 can (14 ounces) condensed milk Pinch of salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For Caramel Sauce: 6 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons water

HOW TO PREP: Preheat oven to 350 F.

Mix 6 tablespoons of sugar, all eggs and egg whites, the evaporated milk, condensed milk, salt and vanilla extract in a blender, or mix well with a handheld mixer. Set aside. Next, make the caramel. Put the remaining 6 tablespoons of sugar and 2 tablespoons of water in an oven-safe pan over medium heat. Stir the sugar as it cooks. It gets very hot, so be careful. Make sure it coats the sides of the pan until it turns a rich amber color. Watch carefully so the mixture does not burn. Once the caramel is done, add the blended mixture to an 8” pan. Put the pan in a water bath. Bake covered with aluminum foil for an hour. Remove from oven and let cool completely. Then slide a knife gently around the edges of the flan to loosen it from the pan. Refrigerate the entire pan with the flan inside. Flip it out of the pan before serving. Drizzle with cognac and serve with Cuban espresso. CAFÉ CUBANO The perfect accompaniment for flan is Café Cubano — the sweet, strong brew that is served in every Cuban home. WHAT YOU WILL NEED: Ground dark roast espresso, such as Bustelo 2 tablespoons sugar or more to taste HOW TO PREP: Using a 6-cup stovetop espresso maker, fill the lower chamber with cold water. Insert the funnel and fill with espresso. Pat smooth with the back of a spoon to level off, but do not press down. Replace the upper chamber and screw tightly. Place the pot over low

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