ROUSES_Winter2022_Magazine Pages Web
in the back of his bar. But over time, Manale’s gained fame for its stellar Sicilian Creole cuisine. Frank and his wife, Alice, did not have children of their own, but his nephews — Pascal, Pete, Jake, and namesake Frank — joined efforts to make their uncle’s place a success. In 1937, when Frank Manale died unexpectedly at age 57, the family came together to continue in his stead. Pete was a waiter and Jake cooked, with Frank and Pascal running the business from behind the bar. Eventually, Pascal assumed ownership and added his name to his Uncle Frank’s. Pascal’s wife, Frances, and his unmarried sisters, Lulu and Mamie, played an integral role in the restaurant. Daily, from the kitchen of the large family home they shared on Louisiana Avenue Parkway, they prepared the restaurant’s red gravy and meatballs and stuffed Pascal’s famous artichokes. In 1954, Pascal created barbeque shrimp, forever making Manale’s a New Orleans culinary destination. After a fatal heart attack took Pascal in 1958, his siblings and his four offspring carried on the family restaurant tradition for the next forty years. Sandy, Bob, Mark and Ginny DeFelice, Pascal’s grandchildren, ushered the restaurant into the 21st century, ensuring the family’s reputation for delicious food and warm hospitality was always paramount. There was never a time when a family member was not in attendance there. Pascal’s Manale was hailed as the second-oldest family owned and -operated establishment in New Orleans, following 150-year-old Antoine’s, and in 2013 celebrated its centennial. The DeFelice family gave me the honor of telling their remarkable Sicilian Creole family’s story in the 2018 book, Pascal’s Manale Cookbook . With the exception of barbeque shrimp, the book is complete with all the recipes that made the restaurant famous. In 2019, Manale’s was purchased by Ray and Jessica Brandt. Ray Brandt’s widow owns the business today. — Poppy Tooker
Dust,” a crumbled mix of Nacho Cheese and Cool Ranch chips, to the Grand Slam McMuffin, a Molly’s Rise and Shine favorite that Hereford describes “as American as gluttony and cease-and desist letters,” nothing is held back. The Bologna, which is Turkey and The Wolf’s most celebrated sandwich, is included in its full glory. Hereford credits his sourcing butcher shop, Piece of Meat, for the company’s “artisan tubed meat,” while giving full instructions on how to make the “quick pickled” homemade chips and Tay’s Sweet Hot Mustard at home—both essential to the finished dish. With all the fun to be found within its pages, there is also a lot of serious culinary knowledge. Hereford walks readers through the arduous process of making hog’s head cheese, complete with a two-page itinerary to help “get it done in one day.” Adventurous cooks are rewarded with recipes utilizing hog’s head cheese in rice, tacos and collard greens. This cookbook is the perfect gift for all flavor trippers and thrill seekers on your holiday list. — Poppy Tooker
PI-YAHHHHH! ! ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Bring some Cajun into your kitchen with this keepsake cookbook from Jason Derouen, the online personality behind The Cajun Ninja. PI-YAHHHHH!! invites you into Jason’s home for meals tested and approved by his very own family. From springtime crawfish boils with all the fixins to fried turkey Thanksgiving feasts to everyday weeknight meals spent around the family supper table, these Bayou born recipes are enough to make you say “PI-YAHHHHH!!” yourself. Available from https://www.hoffmanmediastore. com. Pick up a can of The Cajun Ninja’s PI-YAHHHHH Seasoning at any Rouses Market.
SECRETS OF A TASTEMAKER ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Secrets of a Tastemaker: Al Copeland, The Cookbook , chronicles the fried chicken magnate’s life and the rise of the Popeyes fast food empire. The book, from Kit Wohl and Chris Rose with the Copeland Family and foreword by Al Copeland Jr., includes countless stories and over 100 recipes (though not those associated with Popeyes), including Buttermilk Biscuits, Sweet Heat Chicken, Ricochet Catfish, Fettuccine Lamborghini and Cajun Duckanoff.
PASCAL’S MANALE COOKBOOK, A FAMILY TRADITION
ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Pascal’s Manale restaurant has been an Uptown New Orleans institution since founder Frank Manale opened the casual eatery on the corner of Napoleon Avenue and Dryades Street in 1913. Originally more of a bar than a restaurant, from its earliest days, oysters on the half shell and oyster loaves were part of the fare. Early on, Frank was known as a bootlegger and gambler who ran a bookie operation
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