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j ulie’s shift in perspective occurred while traveling. She was in Chicago to see family and, while at dinner, a relative who was recovering from surgery ordered a mocktail. Julie tried it, and was astonished to find that it was really good. Later, while visiting Connecticut, a chance mocktail served at lunch sealed the deal. “I was like: Darn — I’ve really been wrong about this!” she said, laughing. She came to see mocktails the way all spirits are best enjoyed: as a communal activity.

Jingle Bell Mock By David W. Brown “I used to be anti-mocktail,” said Julie Joy, the Director of Beer, Wine and Spirits for Rouses Markets. “Just drink juice or something, right?” She’s not the only person who felt that way. Going into our conversation, I held the same view. Mocktails just always seemed like a lesser alternative to the real thing, or the consolation prize for the designated driver. The more Julie

“Even if they can’t — or don’t want to — drink, people still want to feel like they’re celebrating, or part of the moment,” she said. Which makes a lot of sense. Whether raising a glass in a toast, clinking it with others, or enjoying that first sip, drinking can be a surprisingly complex social ritual. Mocktails allow for greater inclusion in the tradition, and facilitate a sense of belonging and participation that one might otherwise miss out on. A common misconception about mocktails is that they’re merely cocktails without the booze. “It’s a new creature,” Julie explained, with their own flavor profiles, mouthfeel, sweetness and acidity. As such, they need not be

interpreted by how “real” they taste, and bartenders aren’t simply duplicating the martini. Instead, they’re creating something entirely different. That said, the beauty of mocktails is that mimicry is

and I talked, however, the more I came to realize that I was mistaken. Mocktails are not merely a trend, but rather, a burgeoning culinary art form in their own right.

50 ROUSES WINTER 2023