Rouses MARCH-APRIL_2017_final_m

PITMASTER

and the sweet corn spoonbread is something we’ve turned into one of our signature dishes. We also don’t like to throw anything away — if we have any little brisket scraps we can’t serve, we chop it up and add it to our brisket chili. It’s part of our sustainability plan. Brad Gottsegen: Arguably, the most popular item on your menu is burnt ends, a delicacy that’s rarely seen outside of its hometown, Kansas City. Can you tell me about what they are and what goes into preparing them? Chef Rob: They came to be by accident when I was cooking at Smokin’ Buddha, when a customer asked me why I wasn’t making them. I did some research, starting

come back to you once or twice a week. That’s the diversity we’re going for, and we want our food to be accessible to everyone. BradGottsegen: One thing that’s interesting to me is that, compared to many other famous barbecue joints, such as Dreamland in Alabama, that literally only sells meat with sauce and a loaf of white bread, you guys are focused on designing a full meal, with lots of attention being paid to sides. Is that a reflection of the well roundedness and expectations of the NewOrleans consumer, or more that y’all are just foodies? Chef Rob: It comes from me wanting to cook what I like to eat, and that’s why we bring it to the table. I really enjoy greens,

Chef Rob: We definitely are, mainly by using local ingredients and products whenever we can. Steen’s Cane Syrup, strawberries from Pontchatoula, juice from Plaquemines Parish citrus — those flavors are incredible and so much better that what we can get out of products from Mexico and California. Once we get our feet underneath us a bit more, we’re going to be offering seafood items on our menu, which will really help us put New Orleans on the map as a destination for barbecue. Brad Gottsegen: Rob — what does one have to do to earn the title “Pitmaster”? Does it come with a pair of golden BBQ gloves? Chef Rob: Time and sleepy eyes. It’s 12- hour shifts or more, it’s dedication — I was here at 9 o’clock last night and stayed here until 7am today. It’s putting in the time to make sure it’s done right. BradGottsegen: Seriously,given how difficult this type of cooking is from a time intensity standpoint, what led you to this career? Chef Rob: Stupidity. Honestly, it’s the commitment I had to putting out a perfect piece of BBQ. From my experience in fine dining, my mentality is that the product is perfect when the details are met. Whether it be brisket or ribs, my burnt ends or pulled pork, I feel like I have the spirit of the legendary Chef Susan Spicer sitting on my shoulder making sure I’m doing it properly. She mentored Aaron and me when we were coming up through the ranks as line cooks, and I hear her voice all the time: “Are you doing those greens right?Did you put enough vinegar in? Are you tasting everything?” Brad Gottsegen: Aaron — you’re a nationally renowned owner and chef at Patois in New Orleans, a refined, bonafide foodie restaurant. But you’ve also owned a burger joint, and now own a barbecue joint. Where do you see the local restaurant scene headed? Chef Aaron: I’m always watching to see the way the trends are going. With a couple of notable exceptions, “fine” fine dining is dead in New Orleans, and everything in the city is so casual now. In order to survive, you have to evolve to meet the changes in the local landscape. In a fine dining setting, you might see a customer once or twice a year, but if you’re selling something delicious for $10-12 a plate in a casual setting, where they can come dressed as they are, they may

[PAGE 14] BBQ Sampler [TOP LEFT] Smoked Boudin [TOPRIGHT] Smoked Chicken [BOTTOM] Brisket Burnt Ends

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