Hidden Nola 2023

ADORE // CITY GUIDE HIDDEN NOLA 2023

2023 EVENTS

A quick guide to New Orleans’ biggest events

Januar y 2023 1/6 Carnival (and King Cake!) Season begins 1/14 Miss Universe 2023

Februar y 2023 2/21 Mardi Gras Day Mar ch 2023 3/31 Hogs for the Cause

Apr i l 2023 4/13-16 French Quarter Festival 4/17 Zurich Classic of New Orleans 4/28-30 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival Weekend 1 May 2023 5/4-7 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival Weekend 2 5/18 Bayou Boogaloo

June 2023 6/11-12 French Market Creole Tomato Festival 6/29-7/3 Essence Festival of Culture

Hotel Saint Vincent Lobby Photo by Douglas Friedman

INSIDE 9 // A City Guide by Locals 14 // French Quarter 15 // Uptown 16 // Marigny 17 // Bywater 18 // Mid-City 19 // Lower Garden District

Ju l y 2023 Running of the Bulls* 7/23-28 Tales of the Cocktail

Augus t 2023 8/1-31 COOLinary New Orleans (all month)

8/12 Red Dress Run White Linen Night* Sept ember 2023 Beignet Fest* Southern Decadence* LOVE in the Garden*

Oc t obe r 2023 National Fried Chicken Fest* 10/21 Krewe of BOO Novembe r 2023 Oak Street Po Boy Fest* New Orleans Film Festival*

Publisher Jeanne Exnicious Editor Michaela Bechler Senior Graphic Designer Emily Sucherman Advertising Director Sandy Stein Sales Kathryn Trigo & Paige Koritz Contributor Jenny Peterson Advertising Creative Catherine Flotte

Decembe r 2023 Children’s Hospital New Orleans Holiday Parade*

Date TBD*

Cover photo by Sophia Germer

For more New Orleans, visit @nolaadore & contact us at adore@theadvocate.com

For more events, visit calendar.gambitweekly.com

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W idely known as a city with a vibrant spirit, New Orleans is made up of people who embrace all of its quirks and is frequented by those who want to experience a bit of the magic. With so much to do, taste, and see, we’ve asked locals to share where they like to stroll, their best Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest tips, and all of their hidden gems around town. BIENVENUE! A CITY GUIDE BY LOCALS

TAYLOR EICHENWALD ASK A LOCAL

Assistant Director and Auctioneer, New Orleans Auction Galleries

Photo provided by Taylor Eichenwald

NINA COMPTON ASK A LOCAL Chef and Owner of Compère Lapin and Bywater American Bistro

ONE WORD THAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF NEW ORLEANS Vibrant FAVORITE TIME OF YEAR October – the weather is perfect and it’s the best time for outdoor activities FAVORITE NEW ORLEANS DISH Chicken and Andouille Gumbo TIP FOR FIRST TIMERS There is always something fun to do in New Orleans, so don’t wear yourself out on the first night! WHAT SHOULD BE AT THE TOP OF A VISITOR’S TO-DO LIST? Listening to music on Frenchmen Street BEST MARDI GRAS ADVICE Pace yourself. Pick the parades that you really want to see and be ok with missing some. There is so much to do and see throughout Mardi Gras, it’s nearly impossible to do it all. And finally, plan to stay through Mardi Gras day. You won’t regret it! BEST JAZZ FEST ADVICE TO VISITORS Be open to all that the festival has to offer. Sometimes the leading acts are so crowded that it’s not worth it. Every tent has something wonderful to hear. FAVORITE “HIDDEN” NEW ORLEANS SPOT Bayou Bienvenue Wetland Triangle

Photo provided by Nina Compton

ONE WORD THAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF NEW ORLEANS Warmth FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD TO PLAY TOURIST IN French Quarter FAVORITE TIME OF THE YEAR Spring or Fall FAVORITE FESTIVAL French Quarter Fest FAVORITE NEW ORLEANS DISH Barbecue Shrimp TIP FOR FIRST TIMERS Don’t get King Cake out of season WHAT SHOULD BE AT THE TOP OF A VISITOR’S TO-DO LIST? Take a ride on the streetcar through the Garden District and Uptown BEST MARDI GRAS ADVICE Eat every King Cake in sight BEST JAZZ FEST ADVICE Plan your eating as importantly as your favorite artists FAVORITE “HIDDEN” NEW ORLEANS SPOT There was a Yurt Village here somewhere. (Editor’s note: Bywater American Bistro has hosted guests in yurts in the past.)

RELATIONSHIP TO NEW ORLEANS Local and not leaving ONE WORD THAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF NEW ORLEANS Celebrate FAVORITE TIME OF YEAR Spring FAVORITE STROLL IN THE CITY Social: French Quarter; Introspective: Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden in City Park FAVORITE NEW ORLEANS DISH Crawfish Bisque if you can find it. Otherwise, Pompano at Antoine’s. WHAT SHOULD BE AT THE TOP OF A VISITOR’S TO-DO LIST? The Historic New Orleans Collection. From there, New Orleans opens up. BEST JAZZ FEST ADVICE Go to the smaller tents. Let your ears, eyes, and nose guide you, and find stuff you don’t know. FAVORITE “HIDDEN” NEW ORLEANS SPOT The Chime Tree in City Park

STARR HAGENBRING ASK A LOCAL

Artist and Owner of Art & Eyes

Photo provided by Starr Hagenbring

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BRADLEY SUMRALL ASK A LOCAL Curator of the Collection, Ogden Museum of Southern Art

FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD TO PLAY TOURIST IN My own! The historic Tremé neighborhood is the birthplace of American music, the nation’s first Black neighborhood, and the cultural heart and soul of the City of New Orleans. FAVORITE STROLL IN THE CITY The Moonwalk in Woldenberg Park FAVORITE NEW ORLEANS DISH The turtle soup at Café Sbisa FAVORITE FESTIVAL White Linen Night. All the galleries and museums open exciting new shows, and crowds fill the streets of the Arts District dressed (mostly) in white. It is the city’s best art party. TIP FOR FIRST TIMERS Don’t sleep on the Vietnamese food. Some of the best food in the city is coming out of New Orleans’ vibrant Vietnamese community. WHAT SHOULD BE AT THE TOP OF A VISITOR’S TO-DO LIST? Ogden Museum of Southern Art, of course! In a city filled with great museums and art institutions, the Ogden and its mission is wholly unique, housing the most important (and world’s largest) collection of Art of the American South in the nation. BEST MARDI GRAS ADVICE Start with the smaller, quirkier parades. On Mardi Gras Day: costume, be open to the unexpected, follow the music, pace yourself, and don’t forget to eat. FAVORITE “HIDDEN” NEW ORLEANS SPOT Fatma’s Cozy Corner in the Tremé neighborhood. Located in a historic location — the site of the great music club, Joe’s Cozy Corner — it is the perfect place to lose track of time over some baklava and coffee.

Photo provided by Bradley Sumrall

T H R OW M E S OM E T H I N ' , M I S T E R !

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EDWARD SPOTS ASK A LOCAL

RELATIONSHIP TO NEW ORLEANS Born and raised in Uptown New Orleans ONE WORD THAT COMES TO MIND WHEN YOU THINK OF NEW ORLEANS Tradition FAVORITE NEIGHBORHOOD TO PLAY TOURIST IN The French Quarter during the day FAVORITE STROLL IN THE CITY Freret Street or Magazine Street FAVORITE TIME OF YEAR The holidays FAVORITE FESTIVAL The New Orleans Film Festival and The Tennessee Williams Literary Festival FAVORITE NEW ORLEANS DISH Anything that has seafood, but gumbo if I had to pick one WHAT SHOULD BE AT THE TOP OF A VISITOR’S TO-DO LIST? Visit the museums and ride the streetcar TIP FOR FIRST TIMERS Don’t drink sugary drinks. Find someone who can make a nice cocktail instead. BEST MARDI GRAS ADVICE Pace yourself and drink water. Be polite to everyone you meet! BEST JAZZ FEST ADVICE Hydrate, have rain gear and a tent ready, have cash on hand, and bring chairs. Also, your phone might not work with so many people around, so keep track of each other. FAVORITE “HIDDEN” NEW ORLEANS SPOT Well if I told you, it wouldn’t be a secret. My advice is to explore safely, and you’ll realize New Orleans has so many hidden spots to have a good time. If you like dancing, check out The Rabbit Hole on Oretha Castle Haley Boulevard. You’ll feel like you’re in Berlin.

Choreographer, Actor & Teacher

Photo provided by Edward Spots

L A I S S E Z L E S B O N T E M P S R O U L E R

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FRENCH QUARTER

T he most recognizable area in the city, the action-packed French Quarter, consists of centuries-old French and Spanish architecture with charming hidden brick courtyards, iron balconies, and Creole cottages. There is never a shortage of things to see or do, day or night. The French Market, Jackson Square, and Canal Place draw shoppers along Decatur Street, just steps from the Mississippi River. Royal Street is world-renowned for its art, jewelry, and antique stores, and foodies will find fine dining restaurants and bars across the neighborhood. Artists, street performers, and musicians are fixtures in the French Quarter, as is Bourbon Street’s all night-party atmosphere. And a very established LGBTQ+ scene in the lower French Quarter welcomes everyone.

Good Friends Bar Photo by Sophia Germer

Eat + Drink

Shop | Play | Visit

Galatoire’s , an internationally-renowned restaurant and French Quarter staple, always draws a well-dressed, yet rowdy crowd. Classic New Orleans fare and fresh seafood can be found at Red Fish Grill and the charbroiled oysters at Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar can’t be beat. Brennan’s has been a fine dining destination since 1946 with tableside flaming Bananas Foster and jazz brunch. For more casual Creole fare, two Maspero locations serve up classic New Orleans dishes and Port of Call is a favorite for burgers with a side of a piled high baked potato late into the night. For a true New Orleans experience, stop by Verti Mart grocery store for a muffuletta sandwich to go. Bars with an amazing lineup of live music include Balcony Music Club, Fritzel’s Jazz Bar, and Maison on Bourbon . Storied bars like Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar, Erin Rose, Good Friends, and Molly’s on the Market, with its signature frozen Irish coffee, are definitely worth a visit. Known for its iconic Hurricanes and dueling pianos, Pat O’Brien’s is always a lively time.

Art enthusiasts can’t miss the world-renowned galleries and shops along Royal Street, including M.S. Rau, which deals high-end art, antiques, and jewelry; and George Rodrigue Studio , the namesake gallery of the New Orleans artist who famously painted his Blue Dog Series. Photography lovers should pop by the gallery of Frank Relle , who captures Louisiana swamps at night with creative illumination. Learn more about New Orleans history at The Historic New Orleans Collection or the Sazerac House which offers background into New Orleans’ famed cocktail. The New Orleans Pharmacy Museum , inside a building on the National Register of Historic Places, delves into the history of health care and healing tonics in the city. For unique shopping, Glitter Box is a hyper local shop with accessories made by New Orleans artists. The Shop at The Historic New Orleans Collection offers a curated selection of custom, exclusive, and local products. Fifi Mahony’s is a funky shop with a wide range of wigs, custom designs, makeup, and costume accessories. For New Orleans voodoo dolls and many other items blessed by the spirits, Marie Laveau House of Voodoo is sure to please.

Sleep

Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street has a unique feature: a revolving Carousel Bar that takes patrons for a slow and controlled spin. The Royal Sonesta is located on Bourbon Street with an outdoor pool, multiple bars, and a jazz club. Cool off at Maison Dupuy , a boutique hotel, with one of the largest pools in the French Quarter.

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UPTOWN

M any distinct neighborhoods comprise Uptown including The Garden District, Irish Channel, Carrollton, and the Black Pearl. Home to many shops, restaurants, bars, and galleries, Uptown thoughtfully mixes residential and commercial properties along some of its busiest routes including Prytania Street and St. Charles Avenue. Uptown also includes Tulane University and Loyola University as well as many family-friendly attractions. Other popular rues to explore are Oak Street, Maple Street, Freret Street, and of course, Magazine Street. Visiting for Mardi Gras? Stake out a spot on the sidewalk or neutral ground for an authentic parade experience.

Eat + Drink

Enjoy a cozy dinner at Lilette before walking next door to Bouligny Tavern , an ideal spot for a nightcap. Saffron offers elevated Indian fare accompanied by a creative cocktail list. Serving up the New Orleans classics, Atchafalaya and Commander’s Palace are both great choices for brunch and dinner. Windowsill Pies on Freret Street will satisfy any sweet tooth with its seasonal flavors. Vincent’s , an Uptown favorite, is always voted “Best Italian Restaurant” by Gambit Weekly’s readers. Fancy a craft cocktail? Cure , a James Beard Award winner, is just the spot. Experience the holidays year-round at local watering hole Snake and Jake's Christmas Club Lounge and head to Cooter Brown’s for fried food, oysters, and a laid-back bar atmosphere.

The Rink Photo by Chris Granger

Shop | Play | Visit

Audubon Park is the perfect place to start your day. With playgrounds, two walking paths, and a golf course, there is something for everyone. Across the way is Audubon Zoo and The Fly , a grassy area perfect for picnicking and watching the ships roll by. Home Malone is filled with art and products by Southern creators and Nola Boards crafts custom cutting boards offered alongside kitchen supplies and accessories. In the heart of The Garden District is The Rink , a shopping center with boutiques and a coffee shop. Mignon Faget , a city staple for over 50 years, continues to create unique jewelry pieces inspired by New Orleans and its environment. Glasskin is a self-care haven for all skin types offering facials, skin workouts, and a moment of relaxation. For live music, Gasa Gasa , Maple Leaf Bar , and Tipitina’s , a New Orleans icon, have you covered.

Sleep

The Chloe is a 14-room hotel, restaurant, and bar housed in a 19th-century mansion with many of its original details still intact. Recently restored, The Columns is just as much a hang for locals as it is visitors. Snag a spot in the idyllic courtyard and watch the streetcars pass. The Park View Historic Hotel overlooks Audubon Park and is just steps away from Tulane University and Loyola University.

The Chloe Photo by Chris Granger

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MARIGNY

A djacent to the French Quarter, the Faubourg Marigny is an offbeat residential area of the city with a host of funky bars and restaurants. Frenchmen Street is a mecca for live, local music both inside storied jazz clubs and in spontaneous renditions on street corners. Bounded by Esplanade Avenue, St. Claude Avenue, and Press Street, the Marigny has a French Quarter feel with many colorful Creole cottages and shotgun-style homes. Full-time residents support local bars and restaurants, art galleries, thrift stores, and neighborhood businesses along main thoroughfare Elysian Fields Avenue and hyper-local Franklin Street. On Mardi Gras day, the Marigny comes alive with elaborate costumes and handmade floats during the St. Anne Parade.

Eat + Drink

Paladar 511 is a neighborhood restaurant featuring house made pastas, pizza, gulf seafood, and seasonal local produce. Marigny Brasserie in the heart of Frenchmen Street serves up classic Creole dishes like gumbo and red beans and rice. For worldly flavors, Silk Road serves up a unique combination of Indian, Asian, and Creole food and Budsi's features Thai street food. For coffee head to Who Dat Coffee Café , an eclectic spot with sidewalk seats that also serves cocktails, and The Orange Couch , a modern coffeehouse. The St. Roch Market is chef-centric food hall with a thoughtfully-curated mix of local food and beverage talent. Storied local bars include no-frills Buffa’s , which has live music several nights a week, R Bar , and Hi-Ho Lounge , which draws indie bands and DJ sets. Allways Cabaret & Lounge is an alternative theater and bar that puts on plays, burlesque shows, and indie music concerts in funky digs. Along bustling Frenchmen Street, d.b.a., Spotted Cat Music Club , and Blue Nile host the city’s best jazz and local bands. One-of-a-kind dive bar, The John , has non-functioning commodes along one wall, which is how the bar got its name. For a higher-end drinking experience, The Elysian Bar inside Hotel Peter and Paul serves guests and locals in its "jewel box" bar.

The Elysian Bar Photo by Chris Granger

Shop | Play | Visit

Thrift your way through the Marigny at Vintage Voyage that sells unique clothing, handmade costumes, head dresses, and other curiosities and C’Mere that’s filled with colorful and fun local art, handmade goods, and vintage clothes. Frenchmen Art & Books is a funky independent bookstore offering a large selection of new and used titles, plus art prints and Louisiana Music Factory has your music collection covered with new and used records spanning all genres. Washington Square Park is an urban park with benches and towering oak trees.

Sleep

Mardi Gras Day in the Marigny Photo by David Grunfeld

Hotel Peter and Paul is a hip, stunning hotel set in a former church and school dating back to 1860. The Royal Street Inn above the R Bar consists of five rooms that range in size from humble pied-a-terre to “quasi palatial suite” with a wrap around second floor balcony.

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BYWATER

S ituated along the Mississippi River, the Bywater has similar architecture and Creole cottages of the nearby French Quarter to the West. It exudes a funky vibe with a number of dive bars that host local talents along with one-of-a-kind restaurants. The eclectic scene includes swing dancers, artists, and musicians in and around St. Claude Avenue, the neighborhood’s bustling thoroughfare and nightlife hub. The area is perfect for walkers and bicyclists who patron these local neighborhood bars, eateries, book shops, record stores, and clothing stores. Both locals and visitors can appreciate the large-scale murals along historic street corners in this laid-back pocket of the city. Twenty-acre urban linear park Crescent Park offers views of the Mississippi River and pavilions to enjoy. The Music Box Village is an artist-driven eclectic one-of-a-kind music and event venue with an interactive village of musical architecture and small bar. Thrifters can comb through rare and vintage finds at Low Timers and Tiger Rag Vintage . Beloved second-hand shop the Bargain Center is a treasure trove of furniture and found items that are decidedly New Orleans. Discover new and old music and a collection of vintage jazz magazines at Euclid Records . New Orleans Art Supply has you covered if the area has sparked your inner artist. JAM NOLA , a cultural funhouse, celebrates the art, music, food, and theatrics of the city through interactive exhibits and Studio BE exhibits thought-provoking work from local artists. Try not to smile when perusing the Bark Market , a store that celebrates our furry friends. Shop | Play | Visit

Biker in the Bywater Photo by Max Becherer

Eat + Drink

Inside a mansion in the middle of a residential neighborhood, The Country Club hosts regular weekend drag brunch with classic breakfast dishes and an unforgettable show. Vegetarians and vegans will delight with a bite at the always-tasty Sneaky Pickle . Cozy Honduran eatery Alma Cafe uses only fresh ingredients for its regional menu. Bacchanal features an expansive courtyard with café lighting and a popup kitchen and N7 , voted best new restaurant by Bon Appétit in 2016, is a one-of-a-kind neighborhood French restaurant and wine bar. For a grab-and-go bites, quaint convenience store Frady’s serves classic po boy sandwiches inside a small grocery store and Black-owned Stuph’d offers up classic sweet beignet and non-traditional versions. Iconic dive bars not to miss include Bud Rips, B.J.’s, and Vaughan’s Lounge, where trumpeter Kermit Ruffins plays weekly.

Sleep

The Mazant is a bed-and-breakfast in a Greek Revival mansion on the National Register of Historic Places. With accommodations for up to 18 guests, it boasts 13' ceilings with plaster medallions, heart pine wood floors, cypress doors, and a 125+ year old oak tree.

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Eat + Drink Enjoy elevated dining at quaint French bistro Café Degas , with a live tree growing inside the dining room, and Ralph’s at the Park which overlooks City Park. Get elbow deep in crawfish at Clesi’s Restaurant and Catering and enjoy Louisiana favorites at Neyow's Creole Café, Mandinas, Liuzza’s By the Track , and Parkway Bakery , which has been visited by celebrities and former U.S. presidents. Vegetarians can rejoice at 1000 Figs with its Mediterranean fare. Neighborhood restaurants include Katie’s and Lola’s , which serves up authentic Spanish cuisine. An abundance of beloved neighborhood bars tucked in residential areas include Pal’s Lounge, Mick’s, Finn McCool’s , and Vessel , housed inside a former church. The Wrong Iron along the Lafitte Greenway has quickly become a favorite hangout as well as Bayou Beer Garden with its expansive outdoor patio. Coffee shops abound in Mid-City, with Sacred Grinds a standout, as its patio overlooks a cemetery. For a sweet treat, check out Angelo Brocato Italian ice cream parlor and bakery and Café Du Monde , which serves up its famous beignets at its location in City Park. MID-CITY M id-City is one of the oldest, most-established areas in the city. It features an impressive amount of greenspace and recreational opportunities with sprawling City Park, Bayou St. John, and the Lafitte Greenway trail. Visitors will notice a variety of architectural styles in typical historic New Orleans fashion, from shotgun homes to large corner mansions. Stand-alone neighborhood bars are a Mid-City staple, and locals have regular spots. It’s the home of Jazz Fest and horse racing, the Endymion Parade, and the annual Bayou Boogaloo Festival. A well-paved bicycle lane along Esplanade Avenue draws biking groups and a red streetcar down Canal Street shuttles riders directly to the French Quarter.

Angelo Brocato Photo by Chris Granger

Shop | Play | Visit

City Park offers a number of recreational opportunities on its 1,300 acres of beautiful grounds, including biking and walking trails, pavilions, sprawling lawns, and paddle boats shaped like large swans. The park is also home to several museums including The New Orleans Museum of Art and its permanent and rotating exhibits; The Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden which offers free admission; and The Louisiana Children’s Museum with Louisiana-oriented enrichment activities for kids. The Fair Grounds Race Course & Slots has regular horse racing and is home to the annual Jazz Festival over two weekends in the spring. Be sure to visit The Pitot House for a view of a colonial Creole country house and The Degas House which offers a tour of the former home of famed French Impressionist Edgar Degas. For music, head to The Broadside outdoor venue for local acts. Ricca's Architectural Sales sells and displays reclaimed doors, hardware, stained glass, and ironwork and Homekind sells upcycled furniture and home goods.

Sleep

The Drifter is a 1950s motel completely renovated into a midcentury modern hipster haven with a tropical oasis pool. The Degas House , in addition to serving as a house museum, hosts guests at a charming bed and breakfast with a Creole breakfast.

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LOWER GARDEN DISTRICT T he Lower Garden District, a quirky enclave with close proximity to the Garden District and downtown, is filled with storied architecture and a unique layout. The neighborhood is home to nine streets named after the muses of Greek mythology as well as Coliseum Square Park. Stroll along Magazine Street and indulge at one of the many tasty restaurants and step into some of New Orleans’ best boutiques and gift shops.

Eat + Drink

Blue Giant serves flavor-packed Chinese-American dishes that pack a punch. Visit Lengua Madre for a 5-course tasting menu rooted in traditional Mexican cuisine. Louisiana’s only sake distillery, Wetlands Sake , offers sake on tap and frequently hosts local talents in its covered courtyard. Other spots worth visiting are Lilly’s Café , a Vietnamese staple; Bisutoro , a sushi bistro; Gris-Gris for refined, Southern favorites; and Barrel Proof , a rustic bar with a great happy hour. Craving coffee? Stop by HiVolt or Mojo Coffee House .

Shop | Play | Visit

Dirty Coast is the destination for all things New Orleans and a visit to Nola Mix Records should satisfy any music lover. Monomin is the spot for fashionistas, and vintage lovers should make a beeline to Century Girl Vintage for curated treasures. Coliseum Square Park provides ample greenspace and shady live oaks.

Sleep

For a quieter stay, head to the Henry Howard Hotel for charming, original architecture, and close proximity to the Mardi Gras parade route and Magazine Street. Fashion and design enthusiasts will appreciate Hotel Saint Vincent , a larger respite with standout amenities and two restaurants, San Lorenzo and Elizabeth Street Café.

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