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NewYork Style Pizza Makes 3 pizzas

and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced by half, about 1 hour. Remove onions and basil stems and discard. Season to taste with salt. Sauce may be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl and proof until doubled in size, about 6 hours. Punch down and let dough settle for 15 more minutes. Lightly coat the bottom and sides of 12-inch cast- iron skillet with olive oil. Using your hands, spread out the dough across the bottom and up the sides of the pan Cover the entire bottom with cheese, all the way up to the edge. Cover that with a thin, even layer of raw sausage. Top that with pepperoni and salami. Add 3-4 teaspoons of sauce, spread out to the edges. Sprinkle top evenly with grated parmesan. Bake, rotating halfway through, until golden around the edges, about 25 minutes. Let rest for about 5 minutes. Cut wedge slices out of the pan as you would with a pie. Chicago Style Pizza Sauce WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 small-medium white onion, diced 2 teaspoons garlic, sliced thin 2 teaspoons dried Italian seasonings 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand HOW TO PREP: Combine oil and butter in medium saucepan over medium-low heat until butter is melted. Add onion and cook, stirring frequently, until tender and translucent. And garlic, Italian herbs and red pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is just golden, about 2-3 minutes. Add tomatoes and sugar to the saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to lowest setting and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced by half, about 1 hour. Season to taste with salt. Sauce may be stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. 1 tablespoon sugar Kosher salt, to taste

Note: Low-moisture mozzarella is saltier and denser than fresh, so it releases less water, or whey, and can stretch without getting soggy during baking, so your pizza crust will stay intact. WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 12-inch round of pizza dough (recipe on page 29) 3 tablespoons New York style pizza sauce (recipe below) 4 cups shredded full-fat, low-moisture mozzarella HOW TO PREP: One hour before baking, adjust oven rack to middle position. Place pizza stone on rack, then preheat oven to 500°F. Carefully transfer the dough to a pizza peel sprinkled with cornmeal or flour. Gently slide the pie back and forth a few times to make sure that it does not stick; add a little more flour to the surface beneath the pie if it does. Spread the sauce out on the dough using the back of a spoon, stopping approximately ½ inch from the dough’s edges. Evenly spread cheese over sauce. Add your choice of toppings. Try not to overload the pie, particularly its center, which can lead to an undercooked crust. Slide the dough onto the hot pizza stone. Cook until the edges are a beautiful golden brown and puffed, and the cheese is bubbly, about 12 minutes. Slide the peel back under the baked pizza to remove it from the oven, and then slide the pizza onto a cutting board. Cut into slices. NewYork Style Pizza Sauce WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon dried oregano Pinch red pepper flakes Pinch kosher salt, plus more to taste 2 sprigs fresh basil 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and split in half 1 teaspoon sugar HOW TO PREP: Pulse tomatoes and their juice in food processor until puréed; set aside. Combine oil and butter in medium saucepan over medium-low heat until butter is melted. Add garlic, oregano, pepper flakes and salt, and cook, stirring frequently, until garlic is fragrant but not yet browned, about 2-3 minutes. Add puréed tomatoes, basil, onion halves and sugar to the saucepan. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to lowest setting

Chicago Pan Pizza Makes 6 servings

Note: You don’t need to knead the dough as much as you do for a typical pizza; that will make this crust too chewy. WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 teaspoon granulated sugar 1 envelope (2¼ teaspoons) active dry yeast 11 ounces room-temperature water 3½ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons kosher salt ¹/₈ teaspoon cream of tartar ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for oiling the bowl Extra virgin olive oil, for the pan 12-oz whole milk mozzarella cheese ball, sliced and halved 1 pound raw Rouses Italian Sausage, casing removed 6 ounces thinly sliced pepperoni 6 ounces thinly sliced Italian salami 4 teaspoons of sauce, see recipe Grated parmesan, for topping and garnish HOW TO PREP: Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 450°F. Combine sugar, yeast and water in a bowl, and let “bloom” for 15 minutes. Blend flour, salt and cream of tartar in a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer. Once yeast has bloomed, add to flour mixture along with vegetable oil. Gently mix with a rubber spatula until a rough ball is formed. Knead with your hands, or on the low speed of your stand mixer with the dough hook, for 90 seconds.

three squares a day

SICILIAN PIZZA This thick, chewy, square pizza, with its focaccia-like crust and crispy, fried-like underbelly, comes to us from Palermo, the capital of Sicily, where it is known as sfincione and sold as street food at local markets.

GRANDMA PIE Sheet Pan Pizza, also called Grandma Pizza or Grandma Pie, is, like meatballs and spaghetti, an Italian- American invention; it’s often compared to Sicilian pizza. Both are cooked on oiled sheet pans and cut into squares, but Grandma Pizza’s crust has a thinner, doughier crust.

DETROIT PIZZA Yet another rectangular rather than round pizza, this offshoot of Sicilian pizza is made with cheddar cheese — typically Wisconsin white American brick cheese, layered edge to edge. A small bit of sauce is streaked on top.

22 JANUARY•FEBRUARY 2020

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