ROUSES_MayJun2019_Magazine-Print

flour about every 15 minutes for an hour or so, and you will have to stir it more often as the flour gets darker. You can store dry roux in an airtight container for months. To use the dry roux, I usually mix equal parts of the toasted flour and water, whisk- ing to blend smoothly. Then you can heat it up, add the onions and bell peppers, and continue in your method of cooking your gumbo. My friend tells me he browns the trinity, adds stock or broth, then sprinkles in his dry roux. Experiment to find what works best for you. A roux can easily be made in a micro- wave. I haven’t had much success since my microwave only has a timer and an off/on switch, but one of my nieces swears by this process. Put 2/3 cups of flour and 2/3 cups of oil in a 4-cup Pyrex measuring cup. Mi- crowave uncovered on high for 6 to 7 min- utes. Remove from the microwave and stir with a spoon, then return to the microwave and heat again on high for about 1 minute, or until it’s the dark brown color you desire. Be very careful, as the roux will be very hot. Put the roux in a pot, and you’re ready to go on with your stew or gumbo. Now on to the topic of the color of roux. Here is my take: A French-style roux, which is made with butter and oil, is ideal as the base of white sauces that are cream- and milk-based, such as béchamel. A blond roux is used for white sauces that are stock- based, such as veloutés. My mother firmly believed that a peanut-butter-colored roux, rather than a dark brown roux, should be used for a seafood gumbo, since crabmeat and shrimp are so delicate. A dark brown (chocolate) roux is for chicken and sausage gumbo and stew, or for meat-based dishes. Several years ago, my culinary students at

by Marcelle Bienvenu photo by Channing Candies

Until I was a young adult, I believed that the only way to make a roux was my mama’s way: Equal parts of oil and flour were combined in a cast-iron pot over a medium-low heat and stirred constantly until the mixture reached the desired color, which sometimes took over half an hour. When Mama was going to make a roux, she announced to the household that she was not to be disturbed as she went about her task. You could die at her feet, and she wouldn’t even blink an eye. Her method allowed her to enjoy a couple of whiskey sours or Manhattans while she had some peace and quiet. Chef Paul Prudhomme’s technique for making a roux was to get the oil almost smoking hot, then add the flour and in min- utes, voilà! — a roux. I couldn’t believe my eyes. I still can’t bring myself to make a roux like this. Years ago, I worked with Eula Mae Dore, who was the cook for the McIlhennys at Av- ery Island, on her cookbook. She professed that all rouxs should have more flour than oil.

“ Cher , a little more flour always makes a slightly thick gumbo or stew, and that’s how I like it,” she explained. I admit I do a roux “her way” when I make a shrimp and egg stew.

the Chef John Folse Culinary In- stitute at Nicholls State Univer- sity and I took a poll on cam- pus. We found that the further west you go from Lafayette, the darker the roux, which might be explained by the hearty, meat- based Cajun cuisine of South- west Louisiana versus the more delicately flavored seafood- and fish-based cuisine found down the bayou.

Chef Paul Prudhomme’s technique for making a roux was to get the oil almost smoking hot, then add the flour and in minutes, voilà! — a roux. I couldn’t believe my eyes. I still can’t bring myself to make a roux like this.

A friend who carefully watches his diet showed me how to make a dry (no oil) roux years ago. It’s simple enough. Two to three cups of flour is stirred constantly in a cast- iron skillet over medium heat until it reaches the color desired. This can also be done in the oven. Simply spread the flour evenly on the bottom of a large cast-iron skillet or Dutch oven, and place it in a 400-degree oven. This technique requires you to stir the

So the best rule of thumb is to make it however you like it. Let your taste buds be your guide. And hey, if you like pre- made roux from a jar, that’s fine too. Another niece of mine who doesn’t cook very much always uses jarred roux. She just buries the jar at the bottom of her garbage can before her guests arrive!

18 MAY•JUNE 2019