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is known as field corn, while the corn we eat is sweet corn. On the Gulf Coast, the late spring and early summer are when sweet corn lives up to its name. The kernels are tender and burst with flavor. So, fire up the grill for a batch of backyard elote, and invite some friends over for a perfect taste of the season.

liberally to it, keep rolling it. For tanginess, I make a garlicky aioli, then add cotija or a cotija-like cheese, fresh-squeezed lime juice and ancho chili powder.” Cotija is a firm, white, cow’s milk cheese that doesn’t melt because of its high rennet content, according to Diana Kennedy, an authority on Mexican cooking who has written nine books on the cuisine. Cotija, which is available in the specialty cheese area at many Rouses Markets, adds a uniquely salty flavor similar to feta cheese. Although it's traditionally a street food, elote — or at least American versions inspired by Mexican corn on the cob — has been popping up on more and more restaurant menus across the Gulf Coast over the past decade, from Playa at Sportsman Marina in Orange Beach, Alabama, to Vals and Casa Borrega in New Orleans. Casa Borrega was one of the first places in New Orleans to serve it. “Now elote is the new queso,” Montero jokes. For those making it at home, he offers this advice: Leave the corn cobs at room temper- ature for two hours or so after you come home from the grocery store. You can shuck the corn, remove the silk and “then it goes on the open flame,” Montero said. For those who want to grill the corn in its husk, first soak the cobs in cold water for about 20 to 30 minutes. It will add moisture and reduce fire flare-ups on the grill. “Be very aware,” Montero said. “You want it a little bit dark here and there.” AN EARFUL OF CORN FACTS Many folks think of corn as a vegetable, but it’s grown as a grain crop. Botanists classify it as a fruit. So, what gives? The scientific name is Zea mays , and it belongs to the Poaceae family. The United States grows mostly yellow corn, “while almost 90% of Mexico’s corn is white,” according to the Mexico Institute of the Wilson Center, a nonpartisan policy forum for global issues. Corn is one of the most versatile of players in the agriculture world. It is used to make food for humans and livestock, sweetener in the form of corn syrup, fuel in the form of ethanol, bioplastics and a slew of household products, including shampoos, chewing gum, cosmetics — even crayons. The crop grown for animal feed and other products

CHEF FREDO NOGUEIRA’S ELOTE Makes 10 servings

TO BE CONTINUED... ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Get the rest of the story from Juan, Fredo and Marc in a special Louisiana Eats! podcast hosted and produced by Poppy Tooker. Louisiana Eats! is broadcast weekly on NPR affiliates throughout the Gulf South and is available worldwide as a podcast. (Rouses Markets is a sponsor.) Follow or listen at www.poppytooker.com, and stay tuned for more exclusive Louisiana Eats! episodes that continue the conversations from our magazine.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 10 ears corn on the cob, husks and silks removed ½ cup neutral oil (vegetable or canola) 3 tablespoons butter 1 cup aioli (recipe to follow) ½ cup cotija or parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons Tajín or ancho chili powder ½ lime ½ bunch fresh cilantro, chopped Salt and pepper to taste HOW TO PREP: Brush the corn on the cob with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the cobs over low to medium heat until caramelized all over, approximately 12-15 minutes, rotating frequently. Check them frequently and be cautious of flare-ups. Remove cobs from grill. Roll each cob in butter, and top with aioli, cheese, tajín, and salt and pepper to taste. Sqeeze lime over corn cobs, and sprinkle them with cilantro. Serve warm.

ELOTE CORN ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT When I asked Fredo about elote corn, he immediately said, “It’s delicious! That is one thing we do our own take on at Vals. Traditionally, in Mexico you see street vendors with steamed carts serving corn doused in margarine, mayo, crème and Tajín – a mix of chilies and dried lime with cojita cheese. People just love that corn! It’s sweet. It’s salty. It’s crunchy — it’s all the things. I can’t take it off the menu. Even though corn is seasonal, we have to have it year-round at Vals. Fredo learned about elote from a woman he knew in Chicago. “You drive through fields and fields of corn. It’s so delicious picked fresh. Elote has been on every menu I’ve ever done!” “Punny” brother Juan (of course!) said, “People like it E-LOT-a!”

AIOLI Makes 2 cups

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 3 egg yolks 2 cloves of garlic 2 lemons, juiced (about ¼ cup) 1½ cups grapeseed oil

HOW TO PREP: Put egg yolks, garlic and lemon juice in food processor. Process on high. Once garlic is fully puréed, drizzle in oil very slowly until, while processing, fully emulsi- fied. Season with salt to taste.

36 ROUSES SUMMER 2022