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Block Party By Poppy Tooker

Is it in New Orleans’ water or is it in the air — that magical elixir that makes local friendships lifelong? Crescent City childhood chums may weave in and out of neighbor- hoods as they navigate life, but those treasured relationships endure. T he Ardoins and Nogueiras were neighbors on Hazel Drive, a quiet River Ridge street situated just off the Mississippi River levee. Marc Ardoin, eldest of the three Ardoin offspring, remembers when the boys moved in next door. “I’ve known them since they were in diapers,” he laughed, referring to Fredo and Juan Nogueira. Despite cultural differences between the Cuban and American families, Maria Nogueira and Charlene Ardoin became fast friends, swapping Tupperware containers filled with foods unfamiliar to each. “You could smell what was going on next door,” Marc said. “We made red beans, but Mrs. Maria made black beans, fried roast pork and croquetas!” In turn, Charlene shared the secrets of her Beef Continental and meatloaf, which are family favorites (see www.rouses. com for the recipe). The deepest elements of New Orleans culture all came into play on Hazel Drive. Marc’s drum set was a big draw, but Fredo and Juan’s mom Maria was an accom- plished guitarist before fleeing Cuba. She led many a family sing-along with the boys accompanying her on guitar. Fredo taught himself to play on his mom’s “big clunky instrument,” but Juan learned to play piano. When 14-year-old Fredo asked for an electric guitar, Maria said, “Get a job!” She helped him find that first job, dishwashing at a nearby restaurant. “I loved the experience from the start,” Fredo said. In typical New Orleans fashion, there was no doubt where the three would head for high school and college. At an Ardoin family New Year’s Eve party, Marc’s dad Nelson asked where Juan wanted to go to school. “He was very adamant,” Juan recalled. ”You gotta go to Rummel and LSU. There really is no other option.” Both Nelson Ardoin and

PHOTO BY CHANNING CANDIES

Then and now: Marc Ardoin, Fredo Nogueiras and Juan Nogueiras

studio complete with a console, mics and guitars. In Chicago, Fredo experienced enough success to wonder, “Wow … could I possibly do this for a living?” Playing guitar or pedal steel, in genres from “slightly country to electronic,” he toured the world and recorded with several groups. Fredo’s musical career ebbed and flowed, but restaurant work was always steady. He supplemented his musician’s income with bartending, and he hosted pop ups showcasing his cooking. When friends invited him to be chef at their new cocktail bar, “I told them, I’m not a professional chef, but I can do New Orleans food.” The clientele loved the results — and the press was quite complimentary. Ultimately Fredo

Juan Nogueira, Sr., were military men, so their sons knew to follow orders. Marc Ardoin followed his dad’s marching orders to LSU, but quickly discovered that college wasn’t for him. Instead, the action and excitement of Semolina’s open kitchen beckoned. He pursued his passion and graduated from Delgado’s culinary school. Eleven years ago, Rouse Markets hired Marc as a prepared foods department manager, but he rose through the ranks, eventually becoming the corporate chef. While in his 20s, Fredo followed fellow New Orleans musician and friend, Josh Eustis, to Chicago, intent on becoming part of the music scene there. The roommates lived in a loft that doubled as a recording

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