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prairies, seafood cabbage rolls are crafted with crawfish and rice, sautéed in butter with seasoning vegetables and spices. And boudin removed from its casing or fresh green onion sausage make stuffing cabbage rolls in Cajun country quick work. Several years ago, while researching New Year’s food traditions in Louisiana, I was introduced to whole stuffed cabbage. Peter Patout’s Aunt Evelyn always served the massive piece on her New Year’s Day buffet in Patoutville, Louisiana. Peter re-created his family’s tradition for me. Similar to the way we make a stuffed artichoke, each cabbage leaf remains attached to the core while the softened leaves are filled with a rich, well-seasoned bread stuffing. The stuffed cabbage is then trussed and securely closed before a long baking in the oven till tender. The resulting dish is served in wedges and delivers a simply unforgettable experience.

Laissez Le Cabbage Roll ARROW-CIRCLE-RIGHT Believed to have been domesticated from the wilds of Northern European, cabbage has fed mankind for thousands of years. From Roman times through today, every nation, every culture has incorporated the humble cabbage into its cuisine. Not only is it easy to grow, but it stores well under all sorts of conditions for months. Just as universal is the cooking method of rolling delicious tidbits into cabbage leaves. Flavors range from sweet and sour to savory, with influences like raisins or cinnamon playing alongside tomatoes and vinegar. Whenever rice is available it makes an appearance, cooking as the rolls slowly bake in sauce. Here on the Gulf Coast, cabbage roll fillings range from ground beef or pork to fresh or smoked sausages — all of which are then baked in a Creole sauce. Creole Italians stuff their rolls with spicy Italian sausage before baking them in red gravy. In Greece, where seafood is abundant, cabbage rolls are stuffed with shrimp and calamari. Down the bayou and on the rice

No matter what your nationality or flavor preference, bring in the New Year complete with the promise of good luck that cabbage traditionally bestows. — Poppy Tooker

SWEET & SOUR STUFFED CABBAGE ROLLS Makes 8-10 servings WHAT YOU WILL NEED: For the Sauce 1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 1 15-ounce can tomato sauce 2 tablespoons sugar

HOW TO PREP: Preheat oven to 350°F.

Place one layer of stuffed cabbage rolls in a large roasting pan, then cover the layer with half of the sauce. Sprinkle it with a bit of salt, cayenne and sugar. Make another layer of rolls directly on top of the first layer, then pour the remaining sauce over it. Again, sprinkle lightly with a bit of salt, cayenne and sugar. Preheat oven to 375°F. Pour the water from the tomato sauce cans into the pan. Cover the pan with foil and cook in preheated oven for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until rice has become tender. Baste occasionally during cooking with pan juices. AUNT EVELYN’S STUFFED CABBAGE WITH OYSTER AND CORNBREAD DRESSING Makes 6-8 servings

Trim any tough outer leaves from the cabbage and rinse well. Submerge in boiling, salted water. Boil for 10 minutes, or until the tip of a knife can be easily inserted. Remove and cool. In a saucepan, cover giblets and livers with water and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook 15-20 minutes until well done. Drain livers and giblets, reserving the cooking liquid, and set aside. When cool, chop livers and giblets finely. Melt the butter in a large skillet. Add the onions, celery and bell peppers, and sauté until translucent. Add the parsley, green onions, and the cooked giblets and livers. Moisten the cornbread with oyster liquor and reserved giblet cooking broth until damp, but not wringing wet. Mix together the cornbread and seasoning mixture, then stir in the oysters. Season with salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce. Gently open the cabbage leaves and fill with stuffing. Fill cabbage core with stuffing. Place the stuffed cabbage on a large piece of aluminum foil in a roasting pan. Tie cabbage up securely with trussing twine to keep the stuffing in, and loosely gather the aluminum foil around the cabbage, leaving the top open for browning. Place in preheated oven and bake for 35-40 minutes, until lightly browned and heated through. Cut the trussing twine away, removing completely. Serve hot.

2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 2 teaspoons garlic powder Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste (If you want a kick to the sauce, add some crushed chili flakes) For the Cabbage 1 large green cabbage 1 pound fresh green onion sausage, casings removed

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: 1 large green Napa cabbage

1 cup cooked white rice 1 teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 1 large egg

1 pound of chicken livers and giblets 1 quart oysters, drained and coarsely chopped, with oyster liquor reserved ½ cup butter

1 cup chopped onion 1 cup chopped celery

HOW TO PREP: Place all of the sauce ingredients in a small pan and combine with a whisk. Place saucepan on stove over low heat and bring it to a simmer. Let sauce cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, then remove from heat. Set aside.

¼ cup chopped bell pepper ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley 1 bunch green onions, sliced

1 9-inch pan of cornbread, crumbled Salt, pepper and Tabasco sauce to taste

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